This year marks two major milestones for Lisa Folawiyo: her 50th birthday and 20 years of building one of Africa’s most respected luxury fashion brands. Few designers can claim to have changed the course of an industry, but Lisa has done just that. Through vision, persistence and an unwavering commitment to craftsmanship, she transformed Ankara from a familiar fabric into a globally recognised symbol of contemporary African luxury.
When she launched her label in 2005, there was no blueprint for what she was trying to achieve. At a time when African fashion was still largely viewed through a traditional lens, Lisa introduced something different. By combining intricate hand-beading, modern tailoring and meticulous attention to detail, she created a new aesthetic that was sophisticated, distinctive and impossible to ignore. What began as a bold, creative experiment has since grown into a fashion house celebrated worldwide.
Over the last two decades, her designs have appeared in leading international publications including Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar, Elle and The New York Times. They have been worn by style icons such as Lupita Nyong’o, Solange Knowles, Issa Rae and Thandiwe Newton, while her collections have been showcased in fashion capitals from New York to Paris and Milan. Yet despite the global recognition, Lisa has remained firmly committed to the values that built her brand: authenticity, craftsmanship, innovation and a deep respect for African heritage.
Her influence extends beyond fashion. As an entrepreneur, she has built a business that champions local artisans, supports responsible production practices and demonstrates that African luxury can compete confidently on the world stage while remaining rooted in its identity.
As she celebrates this landmark year, Lisa stands at an interesting point in her journey. There is the story of what she has built, but also the question of what comes next. In this conversation with Funke Babs-Kufeji, she reflects on two decades in fashion, the evolution of the Lisa Folawiyo brand, her enduring love for style and self-expression, the lessons she has learned along the way, and what turning 50 means to a woman who continues to redefine the possibilities of African fashion.
Photos by Kemka Ajoku
Twenty years ago, when you launched your brand, did you envision that your reinterpretation of traditional African textiles would become a defining voice in global luxury fashion?
Honestly, at the very beginning in 2005, I was driven by a pure, almost naive passion. I saw a gap in the market for beautiful, modern clothes that celebrated our local textiles, specifically Ankara. I didn’t think about ‘global luxury’ in the grand, strategic sense back then; I just wanted to design beautiful pieces that I, and women like me, would love to
wear. That it has become a defining voice feels like a beautiful, humbling realisation of that initial spark.
Lisa Folawiyo Studio has been described as a brand ‘redefining what it means to be designed in Africa.’ What has that mission meant to you personally, and how has it evolved over the years?
It has meant taking control of our own narrative. Initially, it was about proving that African-made fashion could be high-end, luxury, and sophisticated. Over the years, it has evolved from merely redefining to embodying excellence. It is about asserting that our craftsmanship, our beads, our textiles, and our silhouettes are world-class and do not need external validation to be considered luxury.
Looking back at your journey since 2005, what have been the most pivotal moments that shaped the trajectory of the brand?
The most pivotal moments were the ones that forced us to grow beyond the domestic market—being featured in global publications and seeing our pieces worn by international style icons. But also, the quiet moments, the realisation that we had created a sustainable, consistent business model despite the logistical challenges of producing in Nigeria. Each of those hurdles taught us resilience.
You transformed Ankara from a fabric often associated with occasion(tradition) wear into a sophisticated luxury proposition. What inspired you to challenge conventional perceptions of African textiles?
It wasn’t a calculated challenge as much as it was a fresh perspective. I saw the potential in Ankara, the boldness of the prints, and I wanted to elevate it by re-texturising it with beadwork and sequins. I wanted to give it a new language. By treating it with the same care and intricate workmanship as haute couture, it naturally shifted from traditional occasion wear to high-fashion luxury.
Your work seamlessly balances heritage and innovation. How do you honour tradition while continuously pushing creative boundaries?
For me, the heritage is in the fabric itself, and the innovation is in what we do with it. We respect the traditional prints, but we deconstruct and reconstruct them with modern tailoring and contemporary embellishments. It’s a dialogue between the past and the present, honouring the roots while ensuring the design feels relevant for the woman of today.
Building a globally recognised fashion business from Africa comes with unique realities. What have been some of the greatest challenges you’ve faced, and how did they shape your resilience as an entrepreneur?
The logistics of production, the supply chain, and changing global perceptions have been constant challenges. But these challenges forced us to be more innovative, more hands-on, and more disciplined. They taught me that you cannot wait for the perfect environment; you must build the environment that allows your work to flourish.
When you reflect on two decades of collections, is there one particular piece, collection, or achievement that best represents the essence of Lisa Folawiyo Studio?
It’s hard to choose one, but the essence is captured in the fully embellished Ankara pieces that first gained us international attention. They represent the perfect synthesis of our brand: the bold, vibrant print and the intricate, labour-intensive hand-beading that has become our signature.
Meticulous hand-beading and exceptional craftsmanship have become the brand’s signature. In an increasingly quick-moving landscape, why is preserving artisanal excellence so important to you?
It’s important because that is where the brand’s soul lies. In a world of fast fashion, there is a profound, quiet luxury in something that has taken hours, days, or weeks to create by hand. It is an act of defiance against the disposable nature of modern fashion; it honours the artisan and the wearer.
How has your creative process changed over the years? Do you approach design differently today than you did in the early days of the brand?
In the beginning, I was very much creating from a place of intuition and, yes, a bit of naivety. Today, my process is more refined, informed by years of experience, but it still maintains that core of personal expression. I am more purposeful now, but I still design with the same joy and curiosity that I had at the start.
African fashion is receiving unprecedented global attention. What opportunities excite you most, and what conversations do you believe the industry still needs to have?
I am excited by the sheer visibility we now enjoy. The opportunity lies in moving beyond just visibility to equity, ensuring that we are at the table where the business of global fashion is decided. We need to keep talking about infrastructure, production, and how we can better support the talent that exists in abundance on our continent.
Having helped shape perceptions of contemporary African fashion internationally, what responsibility do you feel towards the next generation of designers emerging from the continent?
I feel a deep responsibility to keep the door open and to mentor. It is important that they know they don’t have to follow the traditional path to succeed. I want them to see that, while the challenges are real, the possibility of success is also very real if you are disciplined and true to your vision.
After 20 years of growth and international recognition, what does the next chapter of Lisa Folawiyo Studio look like?
The next chapter is about legacy and expansion. We want to continue innovating in how we present our brand to the world and explore new creative territories while deepening the relationships we have built with our community over the last two decades.
Are there new categories, collaborations, or creative territories you are eager to explore in the years ahead?
Always. Fashion is an evolving language. As an avid shoe lover, I would love the opportunity to design a pair or two. I’m also interested in exploring lifestyle categories, perhaps home, and collaborations that push our aesthetic into new spaces, all while maintaining that core ‘Lisa Folawiyo’ DNA.
Beyond commercial success, what legacy do you hope the Lisa Folawiyo brand will leave within the global fashion industry?
To stay marked as a brand that elevated African craftsmanship to the highest standard of luxury. A brand that continues to show the world that African identity is a powerful, beautiful, and enduring force in fashion.
Turning 50 while celebrating 20 years in business feels particularly significant. How are you embracing this milestone personally and professionally?
I embrace it with gratitude. Fifty is a powerful number—it represents a coming of age, a time of reflection, and a time to look forward with even more clarity. Professionally, I am more confident in my vision than ever; personally, I am more settled in who I am.
What has this season of life taught you about ambition, success, and the importance of reinvention?
It has taught me that success is not a destination; it’s the ability to keep evolving while staying true to your core values. Reinvention is not about changing who you are; it’s about finding new ways to express your truth as you grow.
You’ve spent two decades creating pieces that empower women to feel confident and seen. What makes you feel most powerful and authentic today?
Being comfortable in my own skin and having the freedom to create from a place of authenticity, not obligation. Also, seeing the women who wear my clothes feel empowered—that is a very powerful feedback loop.
Your personal style has always reflected confidence and individuality. What first sparked your love affair with fashion and dressing up?
I’ve loved dressing up since I was young. It was always an extension of my personality. I saw fashion as a creative outlet, a way to tell the world who I was without speaking. That innate love of aesthetics and symmetry eventually drew me to design.
How has your relationship with style evolved over the years? Has turning 50 changed the way you approach getting dressed?
My style has become more purposeful. I prioritise comfort and fit, but I still love to have fun with colour, texture, and the little fine details. Turning 50 has just reaffirmed that I wear what makes me feel good, regardless of trends and ‘rules. Authenticity is the ultimate style marker.
Outside of the designer and creative director the world knows, who is Lisa Folawiyo today? What brings you joy, grounds you, and inspires you in this chapter of your life?
Today, I am a mother, a woman of faith, and someone who finds joy in the simple, quiet moments, in great conversations, in time with family, in prayer time, and in the beauty of our culture. These are the things that ground me, and they are ultimately the source of the inspiration for everything I create.
