The global conversation around sustainability is no longer a choice; it’s an imperative. Industries worldwide are being forced to re-evaluate their practices, and the fashion industry, notorious for its environmental footprint, is no exception.
In Nigeria, where fashion is as much a cultural phenomenon as it is an economic driver, the buzzword “sustainability” has become increasingly ubiquitous. But the question remains: Are we truly embracing sustainability in the Nigerian fashion industry or merely paying lip service?
The Illusion of Progress
Sustainability in fashion isn’t just about reducing waste or using natural fabrics; it encompasses the entire lifecycle of a garment—from design and production to consumption and eventual disposal. While several Nigerian designers have declared their commitment to sustainable practices, the industry as a whole still faces glaring challenges.
One of the core issues is the lack of infrastructure. Sustainable fashion requires access to eco-friendly materials, low-impact dyes, and energy-efficient production methods. Unfortunately, Nigeria’s textile industry, once a thriving sector, has been in decline for a while now. Without local access to sustainable materials, many designers are forced to import them at a high cost, making sustainability an expensive endeavour.
Moreover, there’s a glaring gap in consumer education. While Nigerian consumers are growing more conscious of ethical consumption, many still prioritise affordability and aesthetics over sustainability. This disconnect poses a significant challenge for designers striving to adopt sustainable practices while staying competitive in the market.
Greenwashing: A Hidden Threat
Greenwashing—where companies exaggerate or falsify their commitment to sustainability—is another issue that plagues the Nigerian fashion landscape. Some brands market themselves as eco-conscious simply because it’s trendy, but a closer look reveals otherwise. For instance, claiming to use “organic cotton” without verifying its sourcing or manufacturing processes undermines the authenticity of sustainability claims.
The burden of proof often falls on the consumer, but in a country where the cost of living continues to rise, asking buyers to scrutinise every purchase for ethical standards can feel like an unfair expectation.
Brands Leading the Charge
Despite the challenges, there are trailblazers in the Nigerian fashion industry who are not just talking the talk but walking the walk. These brands are rethinking traditional methods, utilising local resources, and driving meaningful change.
- This is Us
Founded in 2016 by Oroma Cookey-Gam and Osione Itegboje, This is Us’s commitment to eco-conscious practices begins with its choice of materials. It uses locally sourced Funtua cotton grown and woven in Katsina State. This cotton is then transformed into stunning textiles dyed with ancient techniques at the historic Kofa Matar dye pits in Kano. By employing traditional methods, This is Us not only minimises its environmental footprint but also breathes new life into Nigerian heritage.
- FIA Factory
Launched in 2015 by Funke, Ijeoma, and Abisose, FIA Factory is all about vibrant self-expression. Known for its bold and quirky designs, Fia Factory has redefined women’s fashion in Nigeria with collections that celebrate individuality and empowerment. However, the brand’s impact extends beyond aesthetics.
FIA Factory places sustainability at the core of its operations, using eco-friendly fabrics and thoughtful production methods. The brand’s pieces are a vibrant fusion of prints and colours that inspire confidence in the wearer and reflect a commitment to reducing waste.
- Hertunba
Founded by Florentyna Agu, Hertunba specialises in using Akwete, a traditional Nigerian handwoven fabric, as the foundation of its designs. Hertunba’s ethos is rooted in celebrating the artistry of local weavers and dyeing artisans, ensuring that every piece is a labour of love and a nod to cultural heritage.
By working closely with local communities, Hertunba creates handcrafted textiles and accessories honouring tradition while promoting eco-friendly practices. The brand’s efforts go beyond fashion, empowering artisans with sustainable livelihoods and preserving endangered craftsmanship.
- Dye Lab
Dye Lab is at the forefront of reviving ancient dyeing techniques in a sustainable way. Their innovative use of natural dyes derived from plants and other organic materials is a game-changer in an industry dominated by chemical-based processes. Dye Lab’s creations are a vibrant blend of artistry and environmental responsibility.
- NKWO
Nkwo Onwuka, the founder of NKWO, has been a vocal advocate for sustainability long before it became a buzzword. The brand is best known for its “Dakala” cloth, a unique fabric made from textile waste. NKWO’s zero-waste approach and upcycling methods demonstrate how sustainability can drive innovation in fashion.
- Emmy Kasbit
Emmy Kasbit’s work exemplifies the intersection of sustainability and luxury. Known for its structured designs and use of handwoven Akwete fabrics, the brand not only preserves traditional weaving techniques but also prioritises slow fashion. By focusing on small-batch production, Emmy Kasbit ensures minimal waste and maximum craftsmanship.
Beyond the Brands
While these brands are leading the way, the broader ecosystem still has a long journey ahead. Nigeria lacks the policy framework needed to support sustainable fashion. Governments in countries like Sweden and Denmark offer tax breaks and incentives to sustainable businesses, but Nigerian policymakers have yet to recognise fashion as a viable sector for such initiatives.
Another pressing issue is the dearth of recycling facilities. Globally, textile recycling is a growing industry, but in Nigeria, most used clothing ends up in landfills or as part of the secondhand market. While the thrift market is often celebrated for its affordability, it’s not a sustainable solution in the long term.
The Role of Technology
Technology could play a pivotal role in bridging the sustainability gap. For instance, blockchain technology can be used to ensure transparency in supply chains, allowing consumers to trace the origin of their purchases. Additionally, 3D printing and other tech-driven innovations could help reduce waste during the production process.
However, integrating such technologies requires investment, training, and infrastructure—resources that many Nigerian fashion entrepreneurs cannot currently access.
Shifting Consumer Mindsets
Sustainability cannot succeed without consumer buy-in. As it stands, Nigerian consumers are more inclined to embrace sustainability when it aligns with their personal values or social status. For instance, the rise of the “slow fashion” movement has gained traction among middle—and upper-class buyers who see it as a mark of sophistication.
However, broader societal education is needed. Brands, influencers, and media platforms must collaborate to raise awareness about the environmental and social costs of fast fashion. Campaigns that emphasise the benefits of investing in sustainable fashion—such as durability, uniqueness, and supporting local economies—can go a long way in changing mindsets.
Inspiration from the Global Stage
There are lessons to be learned from global counterparts. Scandinavian countries, for example, have embraced circular fashion models where old garments are repaired, resold, or recycled. Similarly, India’s thriving handloom industry offers a blueprint for integrating traditional craftsmanship into modern fashion.
Nigerian fashion brands can adapt these strategies by leveraging the country’s rich heritage of weaving, dyeing, and embroidery. Initiatives like collaborative workshops with international sustainability experts or partnerships with global ethical fashion brands could help scale efforts.
The Road Ahead
The Nigerian fashion industry stands at a crossroads. On one hand, there is a burgeoning interest in sustainability, fueled by visionary brands and an increasingly conscious consumer base. On the other hand, systemic issues, from inadequate infrastructure to policy gaps, threaten to undermine progress.
To truly embrace sustainability, the industry must adopt a multi-faceted approach:
- Policy Advocacy: Fashion stakeholders must lobby for government policies that incentivise sustainable practices, such as tax breaks for eco-friendly brands or funding for textile recycling plants.
- Infrastructure Development: Investments in local textile production and recycling facilities are critical. Public-private partnerships could play a significant role in this regard.
- Education and Awareness: From consumer campaigns to school curriculums, sustainability must become a mainstream conversation.
- Community Building: Collaboration among designers, artisans, and other stakeholders can foster a more cohesive approach to sustainability.
A Hopeful Future
While the journey is far from complete, the efforts of mentioned brands offer a glimpse of what’s possible. They remind us that sustainability is not just a trend but a commitment to preserving our planet, heritage, and communities.
As Nigerian fashion evolves, it has the potential to become a global leader in sustainable practices—if we collectively choose action over lip service. The time to act is now.
